How to get there
The road from Umtata to Port St. Johns is tarred all the way and in very good condition. A 4x4 is not necessary. Many hotels, lodges and backpackers collect their guests in Umtata (Shell Ultra City).
There are 3 supermarkets in the village. The range of goods is limited but you will get all major groceries. Currency exchange can be done in Meeg Bank. Several petrol stations are available.
We liked the Gecko Moon restaurant at First Beach best. Excellent German cook, specializes in fish menus. You also get superb pizzas from the wood-fired stove.
The A la carte restaurant of the Cremorne holiday resort on the northern side of the Umzimvubu river can also be recommended.
Lily's restaurant at the Second Beach was less satisfying, despite the beautiful location on top of the beach. For 60 Rand per person we were offered a meagre buffet lunch, which must have been warmed up several times before.
The road to the airfield leads to the top of Mount Thesiger. From the plateau of this majestic mountain you will have a breathtaking view of the Umzimvubu River mouth and the Indian Ocean.